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Tuesday, January 30, 2007 12:00 AM

The bunny vs. the blue box

Annie's Homegrown Macaroni & Cheese is the pantry staple of harried, organo-hipster parents everywhere. But is it any healthier than the day-glo noodles of our white-bread childhoods?

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  • Monday, January 29, 2007 06:46 PM

    The moral of the story?

    Don't politicize your damn food, people.

    I remember the first time I came across Annie's...wow, it must have been close to twelve years ago. I loved it then, I still love it now, and I don't really care that much about the details of the company.

    I mean, let's be honest: the stuff isn't exactly bursting with healthy goodness, and anyone who reads a label can see that. I think it's a little disingenuous to act like it's a big scoop that it's no more healthy than any other commercial mac-and-cheese. I don't remember seeing anything on the box that promised low-fat, low-sodium, or low-anything else. (And lost nutrients or no, I do appreciate that I can recognize and pronounce all of the ingredients, which gives it a leg up in my book.) But what it comes down to is that, to my palate, it tastes a hell of a lot better than the Kraft version, and that's why I buy it.

    I know, I know. Big Companies Are Bad, and I'm probably supposed to feel offended that old Annie isn't really the crunchy little hippie her boxes advertise. But...I really don't. Sorry. And if you do feel disillusioned? Well, I don't feel sorry for you. Anyone who buys food out of lib-hipster cred - instead of the sheer pleasure of eating it - deserves to be taken down a few notches.

    Sneer if you must, but I'll happily admit that I crack open a box every now and then - for myself, not for my nonexistent kids - because it tastes good and I'm exactly that lazy. The basil alfredo version with some tuna and broccoli mixed in? Mmmm. My idea of comfort food. And yeah, not exactly good for me, which I'm okay with as long as I don't let myself indulge too often. When I want healthy food, I head for the fruits and leafy veggies and whole grains.

    I honestly don't give a rat's ass about the founder and which mega-corp she is or isn't in bed with. There aren't enough hours in the day for me to spend time caring when there are yummy foods I can be eating instead. Long live Annie's!

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