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Friday, June 23, 2006 12:00 AM

Sweet smell of snobbery

Like wine, luxury chocolate now has connoisseurs who tout its "mouthfeel" and "terroir." Bring back "melts in your mouth, not in your hand"!

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  • Thursday, June 22, 2006 08:49 PM

    Holy fruitless flavanoids

    Whilst reading this article, from my mouth spewed forth $3.26 worth of my 72% Venezuelen single-origin chocolate. I had been swirling it around my mouth for some minutes, *this* close to identifying the 398th flavor therein, when the article so uproused me.

    You dare mention the tagline of M+M in an article about real chocolate? Real chocolate should melt in your hand, and when you neglect to suck every bit of chocolate goodness off your hand and adjust your shirt, that shirt should be ruined. Forever. In fact, I've used M+Ms and Hershey Kisses to remove tough grass stains from my shirt, such an imposter is that chocolate.

    ---

    But seriously: I consider dark chocolate to be one of the finest pleasures in life. A single square enjoyed slowly can brighten my whole day. Percentage of cacao, the snap, the shine, the label - none of it matters, just the taste. The only requirement I have is that I moan helplessly when the chocolate starts to melt.

    (Actually, the labels, often poorly translated, are part of the fun. One bar's copy starts off: "Deep in the heart of a magic valley, that you can only reach by sea..."_)

    I'd highly recommend chocosphere.com to anyone who wants to explore dark chocolate, and I'd doubly recommend trying chocolate with chili in it while you're at it. It's not spicy hot - you won't be reaching for milk/bread - but your mouth heats up, and if you don't feel like reaching for the nearest mouth and ravaging it, you have no soul.

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