Letters posted here are associated with the following article:
The letters thread is now closed.
This article has certainly been a Rorschach
Magnet for all sorts of responses. Those letters which show an understanding that the
author was writing about a society of trendy foodies and star chefs which she observed from up
close are letters which are worth having read.
Those writers who percieved her dismay at the food
porn she was instructed to write have understood
one of her points. Those writers who think she
was praising foodie-ism and foodporn clearly lack
the basic reading-comprehension skills to enable
them to write a useful letter, or even to think a
useful thought.
I hope Salon decides to run one of her 'wanted-
to-submit' articles; such as the one on that organic pig farm, say. And based on that, see how
many people would want to see more such articles.
I can understand being passionate about food and then being disenchanted with the whole food/hospitality industry, but, it seems as though Ann was never really passionate about food to begin with, and this was just a convenient job. She seems to resent being friends with chefs and "foodies," and didn't like the whole "scene" at all. Well, if you're a food writer, what did you expect? I work in the music industry and am surrounded by musicians, publicists, etc. I don't resent that, I relish it!
I do understand, however, her frustration with editors and publishers who do stupid things in an attempt to sex up any topic to sell more newspapers or magazines. But, it appears that Ann has let this color her view of the ENTIRE food industry and the enjoyment of food. That I just don't understand.
I'm also curious why she was so public. Aren't food writers supposed to remain as anonymous as possible in order to provide the most accurate reviews?
It's fine if you want to bitch about your cushy job as a food writer, but, to then turn around and poo-poo the entire industry because of your own burnout just comes across as being a bit arrogant and elitist, especially when it appears she was never really into it to begin with.
It just occured to me that what may be behind the trend of 'more pictures, less information' in the food journalism (and perhaps all other aspects of journalism) is simple economics.
It may be much cheaper and easier to get digital pictures (and all the ease of sizing and placement that the media implies) than to pay people to write words.
Just a thought.
I spent months in the Twin Cities looking for an eatery that wasn't crammed to overflowing with the morbidly obese... I suggest that you either don't know the definition of zaftig or that you were living in some sort of alternate universe version of the Minneapolis metro area.
you love the snark!
Dear Ms. Bauer,
Thank you for your funny and perceptive essay. I am a chef in New York, and for as long, have done side work as a food writer. I am particularly turned off by the “foodie” world of gloss and celebrity. While it is in my professional interest to stay attuned to the food press, I am increasingly put off by its blind obligation to fawn over novelty or to express what often seems like arbitrary disdain.
I have always been partial to food critics who show a nimble mind and affection for words--writers, in other words, not primadonnas of taste. Sadly, most food writers serve up pre-processed metaphors rather than personal experience and, like slutty clothes, their words distract more than describe. Eroticism in food writing is an especially ineffective stylistic tool. Chefs don’t think their food is sexy, unless (for some) it is shaped like a cucumber, which is just sad and embarrassing.
My previous comments on Camille Paglia were directed toward her scholarship, not her person. The comments to which I responded here were attacks on Ann Bauer herself.
I enjoyed Ann Bauer's article--and I find it interesting that it has inspired so much vitriole here. Whether you like it or not, you can't say it wasn't stimulating. Personally, I enjoy looks into "worlds" not familiar to me, and the best windows include a personal perspective to make it real and palpable. So I'm willing to absorb the writer's personality traits that shine through, even if they are sometimes negative for the purpose of getting closer to the experience she went through. Yes it's confessional, yes she isn't a perfect person--but I don't open up Salon to read sappy earnest articles, I read it to hear real voices. I also enjoyed Ms. Bauer's previous article, in which, if I remember correctly, she was quite frank about her personal shortcomings and that honesty made the article stick with me. On a final note, it's so true that your work can spoil your enjoyment of something--people in the movie business or music business or retail business go through that every day.
It wasn't food you got tired of, but people and their need to be more "it" than the Jones.
Don't blame the food.
"Food obsessed people" are human beings who love food.
Can't you accept their existence on the planet without whining and making yourself some kind of victim of their presumed evil?
I think the biggest enemy of liberal secular humanism is SALON, because the po-mo writers at Salon are just too hip to care about humanity on any genuine level.
It's all ideology, all the time.
We always have be shown where the enemies are hiding.
The author points to a cultural problem at large--the fetishization of food. I grew up in a household where food was held in such high regard and there was an obsessive focus on quality, experimentation with recipies, viewing of cooking shows, shopping, etc. How does this environment affect children? Until about a year ago, my sister was morbidly obese and I had a several year struggle with bulimia. My teeth are relics of my bulimic past with over 3k in dental work. It wasn't until my late 20's that I realized food is merely fuel. When I visit my family, I am often disgusted with their constant talk about food. They never want to discuss politics, art, or literature. Their myopic world renders them unrelatable to me. My father hardly reads anymore. Besides candy making, my parents' marriage is devoid of any real pleasure. As both my parents' health deteriorates due to diabetes and other obesity related illnesses, food reigns supreme. This isn't just about my family, I have co-workers who consantly obsess about what they are going to cook for dinner. I have one co-worker in particular who is an extreme food snob and only buys his baby food from a high-end organic store.
Sadly, it is very difficult to have a relationship with these people because when you try to talk about something else the food obessessed tend to change the subject or stare at you blankly.