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As someone who both cooks and eats, I thoroughly enjoyed Ann Bauer's take on the business of restaurant reviewing.
She obviously hit on some sore spots, though. Let's see...some people are envious (the remark that she was "given" a house, the snarky remarks about her writing) or feel threatened by her observations about "preternaturally thin" women who barely eat a thing. Too close to home for some, I guess.
As for me, when I go to a restaurant and order a scrumptious dish, I'm eating it. I'm not going to push it around my plate, suck a bit of sauce off a couple of bites, and then pronounce that I am full while I longingly watch my fellow diners tuck in. Horse hockey.
Bauer recognizes what I've long believed: food is not only about sustenance or showing off one's good taste and credit card limit. It's an occasion to come together with other people, to enjoy the earth's bounty, have a couple glasses of wine, and hammer out the world's problems until we are all satiated with good food, good company, and good conversation.
I believe the loss of this type of communal activity to ostentatious display and snobbery is what Bauer is bemoaning, if one bothers to read between the lines.
And I wish those who keep reminding us how much they dislike Salon would just go. Really. Just go. Keep your snark to yourself. We won't miss you. Go on, now. Shoo.
I've gotta go cook something now and invite some friends over. Somebody please stop and pick up a bottle of wine (passe or not), OK?