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I don't like this woman. A natural cynic, she is over her head, so she resents the subject she writes about. She admits to knowing nothing about cooking (it's unsurprising that her reviews are bubbly nonsense), but suddenly she is ascribing to restaurants, their customers, and their reviewers all the repressed angst of her own unfulfilled life.
Certainly there is a wealthy sub-culture that fetishifies food, but good food writers (like Tony Bourdain, John Thorne, James Villas, and Michael Ruhlman) know enough about their topic to expand it to include a vast array of human experience. Food is a universal experience, so it is a natural entree to life.
Finally, I'm getting tired of the ubiquitous porn-bashing. Erotic writing is as ancient as civilization, and Salon's obsession with it (and clear disapproval) is a mark of our repressed puritanical society. Come on, editors! Get a life. Read Susie Bright (indeed, why not publish Susie Bright?), and learn to embrace sensuality. But stop this furtive smirking. It puts you in bed with the same people who want to repress all progressive thought.