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Top Chef works in large part because Chef Colicchio consistently projects a tough-but-fair demeanor, genuine respect for the contestants and candor. He deserves credit for pulling that off in a medium which relies heavily on over-the-top personalities (the entertaining snark, cynicism and belligerence of Anthony Bourdain; the psyche-out volatility of Gordon Ramsay; the cartoonish animation of the nerdy Alton Brown).
Does Top Chef have slick production values? Absolutely. So do other competitive cooking shows, none of which - much to the chagrin of The Food Network - even come close to approximating the appeal of Top Chef.
Generally, few, if any, conclusions can be drawn regarding the contestants eliminated early in the season. But as the season unfurls, the remaining contestants establish patterns from which reasonably intelligent viewers can glean no small amount of information about their skills. Are they imaginative? Capable of executing under pressure? Good improvisers? Cognizant of the value of teamwork and the role it plays on a diner's experience?
As with Santa Claus and The Easter Bunny, only a child or a half-wit believes in a Master Of The Culinary Universe. A certain amount of hyperbole is a given in the business of television (and most others).
Obviously - and very unfortunately - it is impossible for Top Chef viewers to evaluate the taste of the dishes, which, if Chef Colicchio is to be taken at his word, is the sole criterion upon which the contestants are judged. I do take him at his word, and his willingness to honestly articulate his motivation for participating in the series serves as an indication my faith in his integrity has not been misplaced. On some episodes, he doesn't look like he's having much fun. Other times, he's a kid in the candy store. Either way, viewers are spared from the ingratiating ebullience and fake sincerity emoted by so many television personalities.
Bon appetit!
P.S. As highly as I think of Bobby Flay, his ubiquitous presence on The Food Network is increasingly becoming a nuisance. Perhaps that's another reason for Tom Colicchio's appeal: He isn't on television every time I turn it on.
