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Oh please mcsnee...
And why should the reviewer be neutral about the source material anyway?
In this case Ms Zacharek's view of Cormac McCarthy's prose (rather funny in an illuminative sort of way) comes right at the end of her review. Her whole angle is focusing on the treatment of the story by the Coen brothers.
I for one has found this review rewell documented and interesting. It's this kind of slightly negative but constructive review that makes you want to see the film anyway.