Letters to the Editor
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The real story behind SXSW
The real story you should be telling about SXSW is how all the great local blues bands (Alan Haynes, Joe Richardson, The Texcellorators) pack the clubs with blues fans from all over the world, keeping the clubs on 6th street open and solvent during the rest of the year, and then when the biggest music festival in the world comes to town, they are swept under the rug.
It wouldn't be quite so bad if any of the sound-a-like/look-a-like indie-rock bands could actually play something original or inspiring.
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for good barbecue
You gotta go to Lockhart. Or better yet Luling. Smitty's, Kreuz Market, City Market. That's the shit right there.
If all the SXSW dross got out of town for barbecue like the home folks do, the traffic might even clear up for ten seconds.
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well, the grackles already shat on my car
In case that makes any of you guys feel better.
You know, I've maintained for several years that Austin was gradually becoming '90s San Francisco, albeit on a smaller scale. And that's a mixed blessing indeed. When the visiting reporter writes something glowing and is greeted with a chorus of "Thanks for ruining our town -- now fuck off!" then I think the transformation is nearly complete.
On the barbecue debate: I haven't been to Ruby's in years, and I quite like the Iron Works. It was an Austinite who assured me that the IW was for tourists, and Ruby's was the real deal. Shockingly, there may not be unanimity on this question!
In a few days I'll be heading back to someplace known for its quirky ways and friendly locals, New York City. And just see what kind of directions to Carnegie Hall you get from me next time you're in town!
Seriously though, grumpuses: Most people here are friendly and nice, and I'm sorry if that makes you cross. I realize that traffic and parking suck during the festival(s), and the bars and restaurants are crowded. But there are plenty of Austinites who go to SXSW screenings, unless the ones I've been talking to everywhere I go are all NY/LA actors road-testing out their Texas accents.
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Yeah, you guys, you're right!
You guys are absolutely right, spot on! -- Austin is one suckass town! Awful, really, a miserable nasty hole! The worst. Everywhere else is hipper by far; shit, on the subject of food? I've had better BBQ in Oslo, better Mexican food in Calgary.
No kidding, seriously. It's a dreadful place, full of lousy, horrid people. No reason at all to come here. Hell! -- SXSW in local translation stands for 'Sure by So What.' Save your money. It's no good here.
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aw, Andrew
You know we love you.
But srsly. City Market in Luling. You won't be sorry.
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First Rule About Being an Austinite
Is that it peaked the moment you got here and it's been downhill ever since. People have been bitching and moaning about too many people coming there for 100 years. It's part of the hipster culture of the city. Things have to be undiscovered. Occasionally the Statesman will run an article on the history of the city and will interview some old-timer who will always claim the city peaked in the 1930's. So don't let the posters get you down on the city Andrew.
As far as barbeque, though, they are right. Lockhart is where it's at. Kreuz Market, Smitty's (the old Kreuz Market until the kids had a falling out) and Black's are all top notch, although I would actually suggest you not go to Kreuz. Too old school authentic and almost unrecognizable as barbeque to a non-local. As the documentary title said "No Forks, No Sauce, No Sides". At least Smitty's and Black's have sauce. As far as Ruby's goes, it's the only place in town that serves hormone-free beef. This, combined with it being near campus, makes it more "Austin", although it also means the barbeque is not the best (nor the worst). Ironworks, which in my opinion is better, happens to be right next to the Convention Center, so is often filled with suits and white collars, which automatically makes it suspect in some people's eyes. Regardless, the real tourist BBQ place is the Salt Lick, which is overhyped and as far as I know, the only Austin BBQ place plugged by Jon Stewart on the Daily Show. Oh, and when do you go back to New York, I understand Hill Country BBQ gets their meat shipped in from Kreuz Market, if you need a BBQ fix.
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aw thanks, squalor & TexLib
But that thing that you're talking about, TexLib -- that's what's like SF in the 90s, or actually like California at almost any point. Joan Didion has this great line about how all Californians think the place went in the crapper about 5 years after they got there, and she traces it back to complaints about how L.A. was being ruined by Easterners & Mexicans -- in the 1920s.
And thanks for the barbecue tips. I'm so there. I may have to try Kreuz now that you've thrown down the gauntlet. But since I'm only gonna go once (this trip) that might be stupid. I'm google-mapping the trip from south Austin right now.
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go to Llano instead
THE best BBQ is Cooper's in Llano, I can't believe anyone thinks Lockhart might be better. Cooper's is where I, a mostly vegetarian, sushi-lover from Cali, fell in love with brisket and Texas BBQ in general. Plus they have this amazing cobbler for dessert, I always get 2 of each of the three flavors and take it home. The places in Lockhart have shitty desserts. Even though I now live about 20 min from Lockhart, when I want BBQ I will gladly drive the 2 hours to Llano to go to Coopers.
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Alternate-Universe Austin
I used to be one who thought Spring Break was the worst time of year in Austin. It's not just SxSW--there's the rodeo, UIL basketball tournaments, etc. So many tourists, and all at the peak of the road construction season downtown.
But then one year I volunteered, and found out that this alternate-universe Austin is a way-fun place to be! I know my way around town, but I'm going to places I don't ordinarily go. I'm seeing people I usually only see during Sx, even if they are locals, too. I'm doing stuff I do every year, but only during this 10-day period. And the bonus is that I get to go home to my own pillow every night. Eventually.
And, like all the other locals say, anywhere but Ruby's. Seriously. Go around the back to Spiderhouse and chill instead. Or across the street to Conan's for pizza. I won't be at any of those places this week, because during Sx, most of my meals are consumed during movies at Alamo Drafthouse. You can pack in soooo many more showings that way.
So far this year: Humboldt County (some nice acting, thin plot); An~o Un~o (great little film); Crawford (this year's typical anti-Bush doc); Gonzo (better than expected doc on Hunter S. Thompson); and Rainbow Around the Sun (fun, starts strong, vaguely Sgt. Pepper-ish).