Top Chef works in large part because Chef Colicchio consistently projects a tough-but-fair demeanor, genuine respect for the contestants and candor. He deserves credit for pulling that off in a medium which relies heavily on over-the-top personalities (the entertaining snark, cynicism and belligerence of Anthony Bourdain; the psyche-out volatility of Gordon Ramsay; the cartoonish animation of the nerdy Alton Brown).

Does Top Chef have slick production values? Absolutely. So do other competitive cooking shows, none of which - much to the chagrin of The Food Network - even come close to approximating the appeal of Top Chef.

Generally, few, if any, conclusions can be drawn regarding the contestants eliminated early in the season. But as the season unfurls, the remaining contestants establish patterns from which reasonably intelligent viewers can glean no small amount of information about their skills. Are they imaginative? Capable of executing under pressure? Good improvisers? Cognizant of the value of teamwork and the role it plays on a diner's experience?

As with Santa Claus and The Easter Bunny, only a child or a half-wit believes in a Master Of The Culinary Universe. A certain amount of hyperbole is a given in the business of television (and most others).

Obviously - and very unfortunately - it is impossible for Top Chef viewers to evaluate the taste of the dishes, which, if Chef Colicchio is to be taken at his word, is the sole criterion upon which the contestants are judged. I do take him at his word, and his willingness to honestly articulate his motivation for participating in the series serves as an indication my faith in his integrity has not been misplaced. On some episodes, he doesn't look like he's having much fun. Other times, he's a kid in the candy store. Either way, viewers are spared from the ingratiating ebullience and fake sincerity emoted by so many television personalities.

Bon appetit!

P.S. As highly as I think of Bobby Flay, his ubiquitous presence on The Food Network is increasingly becoming a nuisance. Perhaps that's another reason for Tom Colicchio's appeal: He isn't on television every time I turn it on.

But you're surrounded by a whole caravan of like-minded folks.

Whether it is espoused by the punditry or rank & file Democrats, the conventional wisdom that Liberalism and the Democratic Party are synonymous is ridiculous.

In the wake of such a comment, gratuitous Nader insults are compulsory for the party faithful. But it wasn't long ago the very people issuing them were incessantly - and justifiably - complaining about the Democratic Party's moral cowardice, complicity and invaluable assistance in helping The Bush Machine achieve its imperial and fascist objectives.

Now, in a spasm of election year ecstasy, those concerns have been either internalized or dispensed with altogether.

Denial isn't just a neo-conservative phenomenon.

Bissinger's attacks on bloggers parallel those issued by the The Beltway Vanguard formerly known as The Fourth Estate.

Whether it's sports, politics or any other area of interest, what the critics are railing about is always the same: the democratic spirit of blogging.

The hostility of the pro's isn't rooted in a love of writing or expertise, but in the very real threat of being outperformed by the Average Joe's and Jane's who are supposed to be deferential, slack-jawed idiots. Adding insult to injury among the Elite Set, most bloggers aren't motivated by financial rewards like The Big Boys & Girls. Financial considerations equate to restraints, and bloggers have few compared to their resentful, self-aggrandizing betters.

I watched Bissinger's rant when it aired, and, after I got over the shock of his cartoonish apoplexy and street thug behavior, it was easy to understand its origin. Like a lot of overpaid boneheads with a megaphone, the man is terrified - and not without reason.

Impunity is the inherent right of the political class, no matter their crimes.

Security, militarism and post-Constitutional "justice" for the rest of us.

Watching the Democratic Faithful do somersaults to justify this deeply entrenched tradition is sickening.

But at least we know what Obama's priority is: Doing whatever it takes, or doing nothing at all, to assure Republicans (including no small number of his Wall Street pals) do not view his actions as partisan. Hardly a surprise. Democrats have been in this mode since before Iran-Contra. The consequences grow worse every day it continues.

"Truth and Reconciliation" is a fig leaf for mitigating their own complicity in triggering and exacerbating the nightmare that has become our omnipresent, unaccountable, lawless, war-junkie government. Obama and the Democratic establishment he epitomizes know nothing of truth and justice except that they represent threats to the sorry status quo.

Oh well.

As long as their bread gets buttered. And it will.

Everyone else can starve to death on a steady diet of hope and pragmatism.