Letters to the Editor
-
Yes
I've been all over France, and each region has been such a pleasure that I can hardly pick a favorite. But whenever the subject comes up, I have to mention the Dordogne. A few years ago, I went to the Dordogne and spent a few days. It remains one of the highlights of all my visits to Europe. Stand back while I gush:
The history: aside from the prehistoric caves at Lascaux, which I think is closed now to the general public, there are other caves one can visit, to see paintings done tens of thousands of years ago by the troglodytes. These paintings were done, according to our guide, by the light of oil lamps (who knew cavemen had oil lamps?), and are quite beautiful, not crude, as one might think. The Rick Steves guidebooks mention one or two such caves that give tours. Some of the caves above ground, on the other hand, were not only inhabited by prehistoric man, but contained small villages until the Middle Ages! These caves overlook the Dordogne River, and have quite spectacular views. You can also rent a kayak or two, and paddle downriver for a view of the above-ground caves from the river. I found this one of the happiest, most relaxing moments of my trip.
In addition, more recent history is on offer, from the Cathar castle ruins nearby in the Pyrenees, to the many local chateaux. I followed a sign from the road to the local chateau. This chateau was completely obscured by brush for generations, until someone in the 20th century noticed the chapel cross poking out above the trees. Lo and behold, when it was cleared, there turned out to be a huge castle beneath the trees.
And the food, my God, the food! The very best meal I've ever had was in Domme, a town atop a steep mountain, with a literally gorgeous view of a green valley of pastureland below. I had filet mignon, chocolate mousse, cream of truffle soup, and the amuse-bouches, which included a duck breast pate, a cinnamon-vanilla dessert, and several cookies at the end. They also counseled us on a Cotes-du-Bergerac wine, velvety-smooth and chocolatey, and that remains the best-tasting wine I've ever drunk.
It was hot and humid sometimes, but I _loved_ the Dordogne. "La France Profonde," they call it: "Deep France."
-
Please don't come here!
Please wait until next year before coming. We want to buy a house and the last thing we need right now is hundreds of you flocking here and driving real estate prices through the roof like the English did in the Dordogne valley!
-
Buy a Guide?
The "Buy a Guide" link takes me to Amazon which seems to be offering one copy "new or used" for $526 plus dollars. It seems a bit excessive.
-
here here!
Get the "Rough Guide to Dordogne and the Lot." Good specific information. We have family who go there for a month every July, and we rented a villa last year. Magical Medieval landscape, (whole cities carved into the sides of cliffs) along with the most decadent food you'll ever have. Lovely markets with the most gorgeous veggies, etc. The people are very nice, but it's smart to know a bit of French before you go. I would also recommend the website "athomeinfrance.com" if anyone is thinking of renting a villa. Excellent service and beautiful properties, and all the correspondence is in English.
I was very happy to read this appreciation of an area of France most Americans don't know about at all. We definitely plan to go back.
-
caves
Re the Lascaux comment - the original caves are closed to the public because the moisture from people's breath is wrecking the paintings. However, an exact replica has been created, and it is well worth visiting.
-
Prehistoric sites in the Dorgogne/Vezere' valley
I just returned from a week in this region. We rented an apartment in the beautiful village of Limeuil (sp?), at the confluence of the two rivers. I learned for the first time that some strawberries taste of lavender, that fresh asparagus requires little cooking, and that pate' isn't just for the rich.
The caves are spectacular. Perhaps the most beautiful is the Font de Gaume. Unlike Lascaux, this cave was never sealed off, so it was not too seriously affected by the green disease and the white disease which nearly ruined Lascaux when it was opened after 14,000 years. The Font de Gaume is sealed off now, but there are tours, some in English; and it may have to be closed eventually.
The cave sits in a cliff overlooking a lovely valley. The people probably lived in "Abri", hollowed out spaces in the high rock formations. One is about a kilometer from the cave. You can easily imagine our ancestors in those formations, looking out over verdant valleys filled with small game, asparagus, walnuts, and a river teeming with fish, and think of the relatively easy life they could have had there, no need to work that hard and plenty of food and shelter. At least between ice ages.
There is a small but impressive museum of perhistory in Les Eyzies. It has a large number of points, video demonstrations of flint knapping, and some information about Neanderthal, who lived in the valley before the Cro-Magnon came. One of the first Neanderthal finds is nearby, and the Abri at nearby St. Christophe Laroque shows how they might have lived.
Not to mention the food again!
-
You're right and yet...
The English have always had a connection to the region (Aquitaine, after all), but the influx of new villas being built in places like Tremolat on the Dordogne River is transforming the character of the place in a way none of the previous interest has. Gone is the peaceful rural village, just like here in the US. Folks, there are just too many people, too many of us wanting to find the charming little spot where we can just blend in and feel a part of it all. Guess what? We don't blend in. Even if we speak good French (how many do?), we're clearly tourists, purveyors of anti-charm. My grandmother was born in the region and I still have family there. It doesn't help.